Friday, 26 August 2016

Burdastyle Jacket 11/2015/102

Hello! I'm back!

It took me a while but I've finally finished Burdastyle 11/2015/102 jacket. It is made out of a lovely black matelaisse quilted stable knit from Emma One Sock purchased about six months ago. I loved the material and loved the pattern as soon as I saw them last year. Now that I've sewn and worn the jacket I wished I'd made it sooner but that's the evolution of sewing for me these days. I'm even attempting to blog fast, rather than not blog at all. Busy with life and other projects and all that...

The pattern:  This jacket, cropped jacket or coat is beautifully drafted, beautifully shaped with front and back darts and hidden lapel-roll darts. Fashion wise it sort of looks like part of the sleep wear for day wear trend I am seeing in magazines, although that on my part was purely accidental. The sleeves sit nicely as you can see in the side view. The instructions made perfect sense for once.

The Positives:  Easy to wear style, with a shawl collar extended to wide lapels. The fit at the neck and the back/neck/shoulder area is good. The jacket is surprisingly warm and very comfortable. The pattern comes in four lengths. I like the casual look, and it is lined, always a bonus.

The Negatives:  No pockets! It is roomier than I thought and I could have gotten away with a bit less ease but that could be because of this particular fabric. In 'a crisper fabric or fabric with high sheen coating' (one of the fabrics recommended) you would need the ease. Looking at the photos I could have taken the body in a bit at the sides and moved the shoulder up a bit. I may yet do that but right now I want to wear it for the last blast of Sydney's winter. The sleeves are long, right to the knuckles. I thought about taking them up a bit but I like the way the sleeve length turned out to be the exact jacket length. (View C)

The Conclusion:  Very nice pattern but watch for the amount of ease in relation to the ease of the fabric.

Edit:  I secured the facing to the body of the jacket with invisible back stitching by hand along the lapel darts. See diagram at end of post. This stopped a bit of migration that was happening when I wore the jacket and everything hangs better now and I am happy with it. The things pattern instructions don't tell you ;)

Burdastyle 11/2015/102

Happy Sewing,