Saturday, 25 July 2015

B5958 Zippered Jacket


Hello all,

Do you know what I would tell my beginner sewing self if I could go back in time? Stick with your original plan for a garment. I almost always start out with a mental image of the finished garment in my head. If I can do this - actually visualise it - then it almost always turns out. If I start overthinking and dithering and use my material for something else I usually end up regretting it. At least this time I dithered about with other patterns with different materials before coming back to my original idea with this black wool. I needed a black zippered jacket and I have finally made one, from my tried and true B5958, which I reviewed about this time last year reviewed here










Unlike my previous version I did not put pockets in the body of the garment, to give it (and me!) a smoother line. I used a spongy pure wool bought during a sale at Pitt Trading (serendipity!) and a contrasting silver separating zipper. I lined it with black sunsilky, which is like bemberg lining but slightly gutsier.  I did put a secret zippered pouch pocket on the inside left front.

Edit:  I forgot to add that I interfaced the fronts, the backs, the collar and the right front facing with black armoweft interfacing, hand basted in because of the nature of the material. Very wide corners were clipped out to prevent bulk. I did not interface the curved side pieces or the sleeves.

I also topstitched the finished garment by hand with doubled up quilting thread on all edges 1.5cm from the edge.The wool hides the fact that my stitching is not perfect, but everything stays in place.




My other modification is a CB seam and sway back adjustment extending almost to the side seams.





There was a lot of unpicking involved as the textured wool wanted to creep out of alignment during sewing misbehaving like velvet does, but I developed a technique of placing a row of pins right at the edges and another row of pins to the left of where the foot goes during sewing and this ultimately worked better than hand basting.

I did not follow the order of construction, preferring to attach the sleeves to the body and to the lining before assembly instead of after. Apart from that the instructions a good. Just a warning about the zipper placement. The placement of the two zipper halves looks wrong but it is not, because of how the fronts overlap.

The zipper half on the front (pattern piece no7) looks like it is too low but it isn't. It makes sense when you do the finished garment up. Yes, I had to redo half the zipper.

The other thing I would tell my sewing beginner self is never sew in a hurry  ;)
Don't turn out your photographs in a hurry ;) and
Put on some make up for the photos!

Well I did mange some lipstick.
Have a good time sewing,

Val.