Wednesday, 23 October 2013

Playing with the Plus Sizes Burdastyle 134-07-2013

I love Burdastyle when it is innovative and they take a leap off the bridge, stylistically speaking. Nested in the midst of a run of predictable/simple/boxy in the regular sizes sometimes they lash out with wonderfully experimental offerings. I found one of these in the plus size section of July 2013 Burda. It is a bit of a 'what the' top or dress with gathers on one side and a dart on the other side. Not being one to let the occasional experiment pass me by I decided to cut out a bit of pale cream ITY Jersey but cut the front on the fold so that I had under bust gathers on both sides. I scaled it to my normal Burda 42. I brought in the back neck by one cm  and the side necks by a half cm. I took 2cm off the centre front curve of hem.

I made the mistake of snipping the gather all the way to the point, thereby elongating that seam by 2cm.
This was a mistake, along with assuming that, going by the line drawing, the gather would fall relatively snuggly under the bust. It does not! On my short stature and moderate boobage it is almost a waist gather. I suspect that even on someone taller these gathers would sit fairly low.

Or does Burda magazine assume that all plus size ladies are six foot tall amazons with full busts?
Can someone tell me?

Regardless, I present exhibit A. Thankfully it works, when tucked in.

Skirt purchased several summers ago at my favourite place in Sydney to shop for a bargain, designer outlet  Birkenhead Point. I love this skirt and happily this style is having a resurgence. Op Shop shoes. I really like to mix it up!

I have to admit I am feeling tempted to go the full quirky and make it with a dart on one side as drafted but shorten the whole thing to my proportions and do it in stretch lace as recommended and line it.

Or, I could keep the silhouette of it and eliminate the dart and gathers and just ease it in at the sides at the bust. Or just use darts.

Is your creative process like this. Do ideas circle like a flock of birds till one of them lands? Or are you more organized than I am?

Here is a diagram from the magazine.

 I've got some white lace somewhere in the stash... gargh

Happy musing,



  1. Val, it looks great on you. Love the skirt too.. Happy sewing.

  2. Looks good, Val, and I like a Burda quirky experment from time to time too. And have a record of tossing a view into the graveyard ... I have been a short plus-size, and not a plus size, at various times, and I can say with assurance it is not just Burda, but many rtw clothes also assume plus-size women are 6' tall. They have kept me busy on alterations for years.

  3. One of the disadvantages of losing weight was not being a Burda 44 anymore. This size straddles both the plus and the regular size ranges. Now I have self draft based on their design lines or grade down.

  4. Thanks ladies. Gail I did grade it down but did not move the position of the gather line. I will raise it next time, do a sway back adjustment and petite scale the whole thing.

  5. I am tempted to tackle a slip dress from a Tina givens pattern again for summer.. but I have the opposite problem, ruffles + large bust = circus tent.

    1. Denise I know the pattern you mean! It would be hard for anyone but a stick insect to wear.

  6. Muy buenas fotos... Un beso desde Murcia...

  7. I just downloaded this pattern. Great review. I plan to do a full on asymmetrical as a 44/46 with C cups. I will definitely be checking the gather placement. Thanks for the tip!