Sunday, 29 April 2012

Burda mutant slim leg pants

Hello people
Do any of you remember the pleated vertical welt pocket pants that I made in white linen using Burda 1/2010/106 ? See post HERE? I liked the fit of them and I wanted some plain slimline black pull on pants ever since I saw 'Goodbye Valentino's blog about her Style Arc Elle pants, which look amazing. See her pants in the LINK here. They are gorgeous but I wanted something a little bit more like Style Arc LINDA. Style Arc is a relatively new australian independent pattern company and their stuff looks pretty good. I haven't bought any yet!
I'd seen the Linda worn on a sewing friend while I was in Europe. Back in Australia, I considered buying the pattern on line, then I thought 'No, they are 'simple, I can do that!'  I bought some black ponti knit from Spotlight on sale, modified the Burda pants and here is the result.

Slim pants and .. some Easter weight that I am slowly starting to work off!

Rear view

Here's the process. See if you have a pattern for slimline jeans or pants designed 'for stretch wovens only'.  A while back Burda magazine seemed to have some in every issue. Trace them off  keep to the basic pant shape, pinching out any darts or pleats. Here I am comparing my pattern pieces to an existing pair of very skinny RTW jeans. I wanted them straight but not that tight.

I added enough length to make them full length with a generous hem.
Check that the crotch length is adequate buy comparing your belly button to mid back measurement through the crotch to the front + back crotch lengths of  your pattern.

Make two straight waistband pieces, one the length of the finished waist of the front of your pants and the another for the back. The width is twice whatever width of elastic you want to use plus seam allowances. When you sew the sides of the waistbands together leave a hole that will face the inside for elastic to go through. Stitch the seams open crosswise at the centre to make everything sit smoothly.

After you've assembled your pants by sewing centre fronts, centre backs then the sides and inner legs, attach  your doubled over waistband. If you don't have a serger use a narrow zig zag stitch then go beside it with another row of zig zag for reinforcement. That is the only seam finishes you need, trimming off the excess that a serger would do.

Pin the waistband to mark the centre front and centre back so you can match it to the seams.

Serge it on, going slowly over the humps where all the seams are.

Measure the length of your elastic against your waist. The elastic will sit quite firmly in the casing when it is all finished.

I cover stitched the seam from the outside as well to give a neater look. A narrow zig zag would do if you don't have a cover stitcher.

Tip: mark your elastic before threading it in to make sure you haven't twisted it. Now thread it through.

Secure with straight stitching.

Then try the pants on and fold up the hem. I needed to take in the pants slightly down the sides at this stage. After fine tuning I cover stitched the hem from the outside then trimmed off the excess from the inside - carefully!

That's it, step by step. My knock off Linda pants. If this quasi tutorial helps anybody please comment and let me know.
Happy sewing.

Friday, 27 April 2012

New Summer Vogues

Dear Readers
The sewing blogs are ablaze with the new season summer Vogues. The LINK Here in the southern hemisphere they  haven't hit the catalogues yet and will not be available in the stores for months and months. This used to frustrate me no end in the pre - internet days. Now I can buy them straight away .......  moohoohaha. I usually resist but one in particular will be flying this way very soon. The gorgeous gorgeous Issey Miyake top and pants.


I would have to buy some dramatic silk habutae, on the stiff and crackly side .. the sort of material that looks like a giant plaid tablecloth.. and the matching silk pants. I've never made silk pants in my life and I've got a big number birthday in a couple of months.

Another item  like but won't fool myself into thinking I could ever wear is this.


Then there's this very sophia Loren number.

Even the line drawing is exquisite.

I also like this quirky hoodie dress for Magpie (football club) supporters.


If I make it it would be in the more practical but less dramatic version here, for hot summer days, in linen.

What do you like?

Thursday, 26 April 2012

TNT catchup

I have not posted for a few weeks but I have been sewing, quite a bit in fact. I need to do a few catch up posts and this is one of them. I needed some winter tops so I returned to my favourite knit top pattern. I know this pattern so well that  it is easy to play with it, vary it, make it clingy or not, play with the neckline, play with the sleeves and vary the finishes. So folks here are my latest two wintery versions of NL 6735.

My cream top made from five dollars worth of rugby jersey from the Lincraft bargain table.The pants are from Kwik Sew 2960. I don't even know if it is still in print. I made my first pair of pants from it in 2005!  See the Pattern Review here

This top is from some blue and white stripe stretch material from The Fabric Shop in Sydney. It is very hard to photograph as the white stripes have little vertical blue and white stripes in them which gives a strobing effect on photos. Also I thought it would hang loose rather than cling quite the way it does. It was very soft and drapey in the flat. I'll see how it goes.

I am working on some simple slim leg black pants. More to follow..
Happy Sewing everyone.

Wednesday, 4 April 2012

Burda Style Trousers

Dear Readers,
I am a bit of a stasher. 'No surprise' I hear you say. I see patterns that I like and I put them on my mental list. I like more patterns than I have time to sew. Same goes for fabric. Things can languish in my mental stash for a decade so these pants are relatively recent production from my mental stash list, they only date from January 2010. I seem to be catching up on a box of stuff from that period!
The pattern is this one here, which I made up in white linen, also stash.

Just in case the link disappears here is a still photo of the pants:

There are some nice details, slim leg, vertical welt pockets, long vertical pleat on the front alongside the pockets, all of which I thought would make the pants look long a slim. Instead I feel that they could easily topple into something more like this ..

or this ..

I have never played polo and I don't have a pony - although you could almost throw a saddle onto my daughter's dog! I'd love to watch a polo match if I ever get the chance. Fantasy aside I do wonder if I don't quite have the ideal wasp waisted figure for these pants but I've been assured they are quite wearable.

View from the rear.
Making them was like battling with the Rubic's cube. Anyone remember them? The instructions were typically Burda Magazine indecipherable and I made it up as I went along. Also I had never done vertical welt pockets before so there was a lot of 'what the heck?' going on in my brain. What I came up with to stop the pockets from being decoration only was something like this.

Three part facings with the white linen bit going behind the pocket openings, a fly (included) and a narrow stay (not included). I did not take pictures as I went in case this garment ended up in the 'Oh *&!% forget it'! pile. (Expletives deleted).
I noticed that no one in all of blog land including PR seems to have made these pants. I think they recognized the difficulties that I did not. I will do a PR review when I can. The line of these pants and the crotch curve especially fits me quite well and I like a challenge!

Ready for my close up Mr De Mille.
Happy sewing peoples.