Friday, 26 August 2016

Burdastyle Jacket 11/2015/102

Hello! I'm back!

It took me a while but I've finally finished Burdastyle 11/2015/102 jacket. It is made out of a lovely black matelaisse quilted stable knit from Emma One Sock purchased about six months ago. I loved the material and loved the pattern as soon as I saw them last year. Now that I've sewn and worn the jacket I wished I'd made it sooner but that's the evolution of sewing for me these days. I'm even attempting to blog fast, rather than not blog at all. Busy with life and other projects and all that...

The pattern:  This jacket, cropped jacket or coat is beautifully drafted, beautifully shaped with front and back darts and hidden lapel-roll darts. Fashion wise it sort of looks like part of the sleep wear for day wear trend I am seeing in magazines, although that on my part was purely accidental. The sleeves sit nicely as you can see in the side view. The instructions made perfect sense for once.

The Positives:  Easy to wear style, with a shawl collar extended to wide lapels. The fit at the neck and the back/neck/shoulder area is good. The jacket is surprisingly warm and very comfortable. The pattern comes in four lengths. I like the casual look, and it is lined, always a bonus.

The Negatives:  No pockets! It is roomier than I thought and I could have gotten away with a bit less ease but that could be because of this particular fabric. In 'a crisper fabric or fabric with high sheen coating' (one of the fabrics recommended) you would need the ease. Looking at the photos I could have taken the body in a bit at the sides and moved the shoulder up a bit. I may yet do that but right now I want to wear it for the last blast of Sydney's winter. The sleeves are long, right to the knuckles. I thought about taking them up a bit but I like the way the sleeve length turned out to be the exact jacket length. (View C)

The Conclusion:  Very nice pattern but watch for the amount of ease in relation to the ease of the fabric.

Edit:  I secured the facing to the body of the jacket with invisible back stitching by hand along the lapel darts. See diagram at end of post. This stopped a bit of migration that was happening when I wore the jacket and everything hangs better now and I am happy with it. The things pattern instructions don't tell you ;)

Burdastyle 11/2015/102

Happy Sewing,

Wednesday, 29 June 2016

Revamp of Burdastyle 09-2007-104 Coat

Hi everyone.

Do any of you mull things over, put them on the Yeah-when-I-get-to-it list then find yourself doing the  thing almost subconsciously at a later date then go 'Why didn't I get around to it sooner?' In my own defence I am not usually a procrastinator. For the last few weeks a new job has taken all my energy but yesterday I had a day off mid week and the result was getting time to take 4 1/2" (11cm) off the length of this coat.

Burdastyle 09-2007-104

The wrinkles are still falling out of the fur. 

The 'Before' I remember it was mid summer, hot and rainy. After the photos I ran inside to the air conditioning!

The coat was blogged about here  I made it knee length and hardly ever wore it, much as I loved it. I want a more informal length to get more use out of it. Fur, real or fake is in fashion here right now so this was the time to get out the scissors and the vacuum cleaner. and shorten it. The cool (by Sydney standards) weather is continuing so I hope to wear this to a party on Saturday night. This coat - I guess I should call it a jacket now - will definitely see more daylight. I want to swan around Pitt Street mall* wearing it.

By the way if you have the issue of Burda, this is a classic and well drafted raglan sleeved coat pattern. I saw a character in a TV show last night wearing a summer coat out of black printed Japanese crepe that was virtually identical.

Line drawing and model from the archives

I'm toying with the idea of keeping the offcut, lining it and putting hooks and eyes on the piece and the coat hem and having the option of attaching the piece as an extension. See post in three years time haha ;)

Have a good week,

*where all the designer shops are


Wednesday, 8 June 2016

A little post about nothing

Hello everyone.

Winter has struck in not-so-sunny-at-the-moment Sydney and I am going out on Saturday night with some friends from America to show them the lights of my city and to dine by the harbour. Whee! What's this got to do with sewing you say? I am going to wear a black outfit with my hippy tie dye velvet jacket on top. See previous post.

Sometimes I get a bit bashful about my love of colour and my love of the off beat and wonder um should I be wearing that? At my age? I have long loved the way French women of a certain age dress but they veer towards the classic with a dash of I don't care what you think. But that is not quite what I am aiming at and I did not know how to put it into words until I saw this post from Advanced Style

Photo from Advanced Style. See link.

Though I am not about to don a tutu any time soon the message resonated. Wear what makes you happy. If the joy comes from the feeling that you love what you are wearing then the clothes are an extension of it and not a costume.

Also, this seems to be an appropriate time to say I am slowing down on my posts but I will keep on with this blog. I have noticed many bloggers, especially those like myself that are not cultivating a profile on multiple media or a fan base or turn blogging into a job, are experiencing a natural division from the generation of me-as-product. Indeed many branch into selling products and being a brand. Who knows if I was a young thing just emerging if I would get fired up and follow the same path? If they offer a product people want be it style commentary or a sewing related product good luck to them.

All I know is from my viewpoint while readership goes up, commentary has gone down. I have wondered why I bother. Ultimately I still do it because sewing and writing about it still gives me a glimmer of joy. Thanks for reading.